DB/Danny Brown Wine Bar & Restaurant

Category: Restaurants, Cafes, Bars

New American

TIME OUT NEW YORK Review:

The word in the ’hood is that Forest Hills has pretty housing but pedestrian restaurants. Here to fill the void is local chef-owner Danny Brown (a.k.a “db”), who grew up a quarter mile from his eponymous eatery. Formerly the sommelier and manager of the Cub Room in Soho, Brown switched to the back of the house, learning how to cook in French, Italian and Spanish kitchens. Inspired by the Continental custom of grabbing dinner at the wine bar, db Wine Bar & Kitchen conjures Europe by way of Queens. The sexy yet understated eating-and-drinking venue offers 30 wines by the glass (including reasonably priced tasting flights) and charcuterie and cheese platters that can be consumed at the low-lit, TV-free bar or in the spare dining room. More substantial plates that cover trattoria and bistro classics—like pasta, risotto, fish and steak—are prepared with confidence and flair. An organic half-chicken is roasted, Tuscan-style, under a foil-wrapped brick that yields a crisp-skinned and juicy bird. Braised short ribs may be a ubiquitous menu item, but Brown’s nearly puddinglike version is delectable. The kid from the block is banking on Forest Hillbillies being as sophisticated as his restaurant.—TONY